New Routes

A list of routes put up in the Moors in the last few years....


1.Fire Dance E5/6 6a ***(F6c)
A superb bold Arete at Stoupe Brow.
FFA Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton (Onsight, possibly climbed on bolts before) 


2.A Different Kind Of Blue H7 6c **  (F7c)
Ascends the unclimbed arete at Ravenscar, first on its left side and then on it's right, finishing up Strategem. Sustained and hard.
Steve Ramsden (repeated Richard Waterton and Ground Up by 'Reeve')


3.Central Crack E2 5c ** (Stoupe Brow)  
The central crack gets gradually harder, with a particularly difficult exit.
Franco Cookson (repeated Dave Warburton- E3 5c+ proposed) 




© Steve Ramsden
4.Collateral H6/ E7 6c **
A hard move surmounting the roof, with a bold top out above. Great solution to an oft-eyed line.
Steve Ramsden (unrepeated)


5.Fresh Arete H6/ E7 6b ** 
The steep, untra-bold arĂȘte at Round Crag.
Dave warburton (repeated by Steve Ramsden- having done the fa of the E5 side-runner version before- confirmed at probable soft E7)


6.Vampiric Obsession    E5  6b *     (Shallow Bog Solo F7a)
The slab above the marsh. Good moves, prone to being dirty. 
Franco Cookson (solo flash) (repeated: Dave Warburton, Andrew Harvie (both headpoint). Confirmed at soft E6/ hard E5)




7.The Hypocrisy Of Moose H8 6c ***
The Stunning arete with one hard move about adequate gear and then a sketchy move above.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton (unrepeated. Top roped by Steve Ramsden- proposed from E6-E8 depending on the outcome of a fall. D. Birkett top roped and suggested "would be E8 anywhere")


8.The Whitestone Traverse HXS 6a/b ***
The 18pitch choss Girdle is everything your soul requires.
Luke Hunt, Franco Cookson (unrepeated)


9.Bivi Direct E3 5c 
The direct start to the classic. Now more dangerous since the demise of the 'landing-tree'.
Franco Cookson (unrepeated- likely to be E4/5 now)


10.The Pasketti Alpinist E5 6a ***
The line of solid rock up the face in a spectacular position. Poor gear.
Franco Cookson, Lewis Dale (repeated by Dave Warburton. Grade confirmed- very much dependent on the trust of the cam E4+/E5)
11.The Teeside Twitcher E4+ 6b ** 
The sandy Eston aid route has gone free at (a hard) E4.
Luke Hunt (second go ground up) (unrepeated, but attempted!)


12. Res Publica  E5 6b/6c*   
Difficult to grade and harder for the short. A three move wonder with a distinct footless, sideways lunge crux. A good little challenge that must be done ground-up for maximum enjoyment, with runners in Nail File.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton (Ground Up) (Unrepeated)
Metcalfe Onsighting The Jungle Drum

13. The Jungle Drum E3 5c **
The arete with gear at halfheight. A superb finish awaits.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton, Andrew Harvey 02/Jul/2011  (onsighted by J. Metcalfe)



14.The Polish Diplomat H5 6b *
Start 2 metres right of Jungle Drum, ascending a wall on positive edges. Arrange gear in thin breaks and climb via layaways to the top, with a particularly hard pull on a finger shredding edge.
Dave Warburton, Sam Marks and Franco Cookson 03/Jul/2011 (unrepeated) 


The Chocolate Moose FA


15. The Chocolate Moose E4 6b (font 6c) ***
The fine arete in the alcove at Danby. A great highball problem.
Franco Cookson, Rebecca Earnshaw (headpointed at E5) (repeated and downgraded by D. Warburton and J. Metcalfe as a highball) 09/Aug/11

Snotterbad Little Movie... from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.


16. Snotterdictomy E4 6a**
To the right of sixth sense, ascend the hanging crack with a couple of great moves. 
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton (Onsight) 7/Aug/2011  (unrepeated)

Mane Vision E5 6c, Round Crag. Ground up FA from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.


17. Mane Vision E5 6c
The exquisitely desperate wall right of 'Lioness' is fortunately well protected, as its climbing is ultra-marginal and extremely fingery. Watch your shins if you fall off.
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson, Sam Marks (Ground Up)  28th Aug 2011 (unrepeated)


Howl Psyche E7 6b*
The direct start to the 'Otter Wilderness Route' is difficult and serious. Pumpy too if you are onsight and trying to figure out moves.
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson (solo) 29/08/2011 (unrepeated)


The Battle For Tripoli E6 6a*
The unprotected groove to the left of Howl Psyche is gripping and has some suspect rock. After secure moves up the scoop, make a difficult traverse on gastons out right to a rest and continue with trepidation to the top. 
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 29/08/2011 (unrepeated)


The Stoupe Scoop E7 6b***
The elegant scoop rising leftwards from central crack. Very sustained, bold climbing. 
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson, Nick Warburton 09/2011 (unrepeated)
 
The Waves Of Inspiration E7 6c***
Nice big crimps up the smooth wall right of the arete- a little bit flamboyant in style. 
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton, Nick Warburton 09/2011 (unrepeated)

Thor's Axe E3 5c *
The Knife-edged arete at Thorgill.

Physical Graffiti E5 6c
The highball wall left of Hunter's chimney.
Franco Cookson (Ground Up)
Pepsi Max E1 6a
The direct start to Pepsi is well protected with pads.
Psychosis E5 6b ***
The fingercrack classic on the Smugglers' terrace
Warburton, Cookson, Ferrier, Marks (Ground Up)

The Parochial Dream E5 6b **
A fine highball outing at Thorgill. There are a few other highball outings to have a gander at here. 
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton, Sam Marks, Sophie Rohrmeier (Ground Up)

Vinaig Arete E2 5c
A short route at Esklets.
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson
Overhanging wall free E1 6b
A decent eliminate- the totally free version of Steve Crowe's line. 

Footless Crowe E3 6b **
The left-hand side of the impossible wall can be climbed at a surprisingly modest grade.
Weasel Arete E6 6a*
The Otterhill arete is pretty deathy.
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson (Headpoint)

Plagued by delusions E4 6c 
A hard boulder start to the new highball problem at E4 6aish.

The Tormented Sole E7 6b***
The stunning arete on the Smuggler's terrace. Cracking line.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton, Dan Lane (Headpoint)

Cupid And Psyche E5 6b *
The young guns finally assault moors climbing good and proper. A serious route on smears and sidepulls, with a bad fall. 
Ferrier and Marks (headpoint)

A Pack Of Fibbing Beavers E4 6a **
The Clemmitt's Crack is another Marks and Ferrier classic. Great bit of well protected climbing. Can be finished direct at 6b, with even better moves and a reasonably independent line.   
Marks and Ferrier (Ground Up)

The Breaking Wheel E5 6c 
A two move desperate on massive holds. Safe as houses.
Cookson, Warburton, Ferrier, Marks (ground up)

Psykovsky's Sequins H8/9 7a (E10 7a)
The dawn for the new wave, taking Danby Crag to the brink. Now protected with some strange bit of gear, it's best soloed at solid H10!  Still a completely impossible onsight, unless you look at the holds and realise just how to lathe your kit.  
Cookson, Marks, Ferrier, Hampshire (Headpoint solo)

Panda To The Masses E6 6c **
A class bit of rock following the twin cracks at Stoupe Brow. Fierce just gets fiercer and all the time well protected.  
Cookson, Warburton, Ferrier (Ground Up)

Dance The Trance H6 7a
Get your best trance shoes off and little finger your way across the wall to a ridiculous finish. 
Cookson (Headpoint solo - grade assumes use of Birkett's runners)



Spawn Of The Hunt E5 5c *
A beautifully smooth piece of unprotected wall at Tranmire.
Cookson (solo)

Electric Moon E5 6a *
After Spawn of the Hunt unleashed the potential at Tranmire, Electric Moon was climbed on the adjacent buttress. Great, positive, committing climbing.  
Cookson, Cross (solo)

Parseids E3 6a **
A cool arete similar to Dither at Round Crag, but keeps going a little longer.  
Marks, Ferrier, Cross, Cookson (onsight)

Swift Tuttle  E5/6 6a/b **
A sort of H4/E6 kind of route. A steady 6a for the tall, with a terrifying smear at the end, or an utterly desperate 6b for the normal sized. If you're small it's going to be even harder! I thought the gear was sort of off route and certainly not trustworthy, but it has held a fall!
Marks, Ferrier, Cookson, Cross (Onsight)

Stuck In The Sky E7 6c ** 
A nuts venture straight  up the left of the slab. It might just prove E6 if the gear is proved bomber. It really didn't look it though!
Cookson, Cross, Ferrier and Marks (Flash)

King of the Hill E4 5c***
The beautiful sculptured arete hidden in Farndale. 
Dave Warburton 07/Sep/2013

Ram-raid E6 6c*
The Stoupe shallow scoop gained from the block in central crack. 
 Steve Ramsden 08/Sep/2013

True E6/76b/c
The  Kepwick Groove gained from the crack
Waterton 2013
Gold
Gold E8 7a ** 
The Kepwick Groove in its entirety, with side-runners in true.
Waterton 2013